Cleaning Tack?

[CaddoCinnamon]

Guys as you know I got a brand new headstall that is leather and silver. My question is how do I clean it and with what to help soften it up a little and my saddle? What do you all use to clean your saddles with and do I also condition them as well?

IS there any good products that work best? I have been using Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner so far.

[FredRock]

I personally like Bickmore leather cleaner and conditioner. There's a cleaner for disgusting tack, or a cleaner/conditioner that goes very far for everything else. It can leave a residue if you use too much, but won't dye the tack darker.

For the silver I use Wright's silver cleaner and a plain old toothbrush (just a generic store brand- the cheapest they have). The toothbrush gets the polish into the little grooves to clean it.

[AUEquine]

I'm not very picky on brands and types. The key with new tack is to do a thorough job. First you need to clean it very very well. New leather usually has a wax coating on it, so you need to scrub all that off. I prefer the old school glycerin bar and a tooth brush. Then let the tack dry overnight to make sure all water is evaporated. Don't oil it while it's wet. The next day it should be plenty dry. Then you can oil it. I personally prefer using Olive Oil. Makes the leather very soft, and it cheaper than many 'horse brand' oils. I like to completely coat the item in oil, I mean really slather it on until it's dripping. Then I wrap it in a walmart sack/trash bag overnight. The leather will soak up all the oil it can. Then the next day wipe off any extra oil, or add more and repeat if it's soaked it all up. For saddles, oil them repeatedly for 2-3 days. Be sure to keep them indoors in a clean area (no pets sitting on them). For english fold one flap inside the other, and tie with panty hose. Day two reverse the flap folded under, reoil and retie. For western be sure to put a pole through the stirrups to turn them so that they stay soft and turned.

[CaddoCinnamon]

Thanks I will try that. I have a spot now that I can bring the saddle up to the house.

[mare]

I like a glycerine bar of saddle soap. Last summer I worked for a few people that used Murphy's Oil Soap on all their polo and western tack. Pretty much a liquid form of my bar. We all use extra virgin olive oil to condition.

[Buckpoco]

For conditioning I often use warm olive oil...works wonders.

[3equines]

I've had good results restoring old leather with a good sponging off with a damp rag and saddle soap, allowing to dry and then using a toothbrush to apply a liquid leather conditioner. The toothbrush helps loosen up leftover dirt and gets around conchos, stitching, and into the hard to reach places under the jockey and rigging of saddles. Use a rag to blot up extra oil. Some of my favorite brands are as follows:

Bee Natural conditioner for distressed leather. This is a nice, sweet-smelling conditioner that penetrates deeply and does not permanently darken leather (will for about 24 hours then the leather returns to its natural color)

Huberd's Shoe Grease, the liquid form - will darken leather but it is wonderful for my hard-used Western tack. Softens dried out leather and returns it to an almost new state.

Kiwi Mink oil (in a big tin next to the saddle soap) - a great top coat after using a liquid oil. This is a waxy product and will not permanently darken leather. I apply it 24 hours after oiling tack, it puts a waterproof/dirt resistant gloss on leather. Let it set for an hour after applying, then buff it in with some elbow grease and it will last quite awhile.

Shoe polish - yep you heard me. For scuffs and faded parts. There are so many colors now you can match most tack. Use the solid kind in the tin. Get the tack in a warm place and apply judiciously, let set for an hour then buff it in with some elbow grease.

[3equines]

PS when cleaning Western saddles I undo the Blevins buckle and pull the fender through the tree (not all the way out !) and clean/oil the part that threads through the tree. Also get underneath the jockey (the loose part of the seat that covers the top of the fender and the rigging) and also clean/oil the rigging. I pretty much oil every bit of leather I can get a rag or toothbrush into, even between the skirts. Helps keep the squeaks quiet.

[AUEquine]

Be carful with many oils, some of them will destroy stitching. I can't remember which ones they are... maybe someone else does. But there are alot out there.

[Kara]

Keeping it in a dry place, and conitioning the leather one a month.

[zoel_222]

I clean my saddle about once a month, maybe every other month and keep it covered with a blanket to keep moisture and stuff from getting at it. Usually I use a liquid leather conditioner, I don't like the saddle soap stuff that looks like wax because it feels like it leaves a gritty residue over the leather. My bridles are nylon so I can't really help ya there! I just toss em in the washing machine. :D

I'm not picky at all about brands because they pretty much all do the same job.

[lacyloo]

I use Lexol
http://www.lexol.com/

[Remali]

Lexol and Bickmore are very good. I'd be careful with oil, like was mentioned it can ruin stitching and can darken and change the color of your leather. Some cleaners/conditioners can leave a residue. I never had any problems with Lexol or Bickmore, loved the stuff.

[shewasmyshadow]

I used to groom at a big dressage barn and all we used were the Lexol Cleaner and the Lexol Condition. Hours of fun chatting and tack cleaning with the ladies there. Good times! We used that stuff daily on saddles that cost more than my car, so I would trust that kind on stitching. ;) I didn't have to risk my stuff to try it.