Tieing.

[FatSpottedAppy]

Is it tieing? Or tying? I always get that messed up.

Anyway, Prodigy and Lyric need some lessons on being patient whilst tied. Both of them paw a lot and move around while they are tied. Prodigy paws more than he moves around, Lyric moves around more than he paws.

What do you guys suggest I do to correct this behavior? I have been tieing Prodigy up for a certain amount of time each day until he becomes more patient and relaxed and it has helped a little but not tremendously. What would you guys suggest?

[Palogal]

For the pawing, tie the head higher. The horse cannot paw with his head up. As for the moving, just more time unfortunately is the only suggestion I have.

[livaward]

More tying......Tucker paws when he eats but doesn't paw when tied....he got the pawing while eating from his momma and she doesn't paw when tied either.....just more tying......It doesn't hurt them to stand for hours as long as they have water.......some people think it's cruel but it's okay.....patients is one thing that has to be learned and tying works great for it.

[Cat]

How do you respond when they paw and move around? Do you yell or give any type of negative attention? Do you untie them before they are standing quiet? Don't do any of that.

Tie them up and go out of their site (not far - don't leave them unattended, but preferably where they can't see you clearly - or if they can see you, clearly ignore them) and just wait. As soon as they start standing quietly - go untie them and praise them - their tie session is done for the day. This will take lots of patience on your part - but if you consistantly do this they will soon realize standing still is the way to be.

[YAorNEIGH]

I would suggest teaching them to hobble. Not only does it restrict them from pawing and prancing around while tied, it also teaches them to stand calmly and quietly without resisting if they ever get their leg/s caught up in something.

Lemme know if you need a run down of how to introduce hobbling and I'll tell you what I know about it ;)

P.S. It's "tying", lol.

[pandorasmom]

I will say one thing and that is make sure you don't leave alot of slack. I know most want to leave enough for them to get water, but I made the mistake of leaving to much slack and Pandora flipped when she started pawing and her leg went over the rope and pulled on her face.

[vicklynn]

For the pawing, tie the head higher. The horse cannot paw with his head up. As for the moving, just more time unfortunately is the only suggestion I have.
Ditto.
You remember those pics I had up of Myst and City(also in my pics on here)
City is tied high because he paws. Other than that he will stand all day.
Lots of letting them fuss and leave them alone. Just tie high for the pawing.

[HeartofSteel]

Niko used to move around, paw, mouth the lead rope or the fence while being tied. He was bad about being tied. A few weeks ago I tied him and just left him and came inside where I could see him but he couldn't see me. He wiggled and pawed and wiggled it took him and hour or so I think for him to finally stand with a foot rested. I left him for 15 more min and then went out and untied him and told him he was good. Now I can tie him up and he has no problem with it, I tie the rope and walk away and he like automatically rests a foot and sleeps. The other day I did some ground work with him before the farrier came, the farrier was late so I just tied Niko up. He stood perfectly still. The farrier got there, I untied him and walked him over to get his feet done. He has never stood so good for the farrier before. After he was done I tied him back up and he stood there for an hour (I kinda forgot I tied him :doh:) and he just fell asleep in the same spot I put him in.

[FatSpottedAppy]

I never untie them when they are pawing, I always wait until I have at least 30 seconds to a minute of no pawing before I approach them, otherwise I just ignore them. Or at least Prodigy, I haven't really worked with Lyric on this issue.

Lyric, I go "ACK!" when he starts moving around(when I'm next to him) and he stops for the most part but will sometimes sneak a side step. Like I said I haven't really done anything with him about the issue so I can't say anything about improvement. I'll probably do this again tomorrow, but with both of them instead of just Prodigy.

Prodigy is a bad pawer, he learned it from April. Paws when he eats, paws when he ties.. Blah. Lyric isn't so bad.

Thanks everyone.. I'll keep these suggestions in mind for tomorrow.

[TheBadLands]

I am a tying nazi... I think all horses should tie... they should be able to tie to trailers, trees, posts etc for extended periods of time. And mine start at an early age... I am going to post a question Pandorasmom sent me and my answer... (I <3 you Pandora)

I have a question for you about tying. A little history real quick for you:

When I first got Pandora I found out the hard way about her not liking to be tied. ANYTIME she felt tight pressure on her lead rope she would rear and panic. The first time she did this was the first night I had tied her to the tie thing (don't know tech term for it) she reared,broke her leash and thankfully only gave the people around her a heartattack and no injuries. I soon learnt just to drop the rope or wrap the rope loosely on the pole so if she pulled there was still slack and she wouldn't feel cloustraphobic(sp). Gradually over time she's gotten better and better, as I've done more groundwork, etc. with her she knows her respect and so I think it's helped her tieing. Since this time I've been able to tie her a few times without a problem. I was even able to tie her (with supervision) for about 4 hrs one day and she never thought twice. This was when we had hit a rough spot in riding and I didn't want to turn her back loose fancy free in the pasture. She did fine that day tieing.
The other day I had been doing her groundwork with her, she was real sweaty and hot. Everytime she works, she likes to roll afterwards. (Something she has done for the past 3 or 4 months but never before that, I think it just makes her feel good). But I had cooled her back down and decided to tie her. She had done pretty good that day training wise but I wanted her to cool down and let the training sink in, without moving herself around the corral getting all worked up still. So I tied her as usual in the corral. There's a tree beside the corral so I tied her to the tree, so she doesn't snap a board in to. I always tie one loose knot ( like when your tieing a shoe, just the first cross over of the laces) and then a quick release. Otherwise she's figured out how to get out of the quick releases. So I watched her then came to the house to grab something to drink/snack. She was fine. Pawing some because she wanted to roll and was mad but other then being ticked she was fine. About 3 or 4 minutes after my sister comes running in saying Mom needs help something is wrong with Pandora. I run to the corral (behind our house) and Pandora had managed to rear a few times, get her leg wrapped around the rope and was on one knee with the other behind her. I undid the quick release and off she ran. She suffered only a scrape on the nose (from her halter), and leg(from getting the rope around it I assume). Nothing severe, just knocked the hair off. She ruined me on tieing her now.
I think the biggest problem was I had left to much slack in the rope. I now realize that I did, but when I orginally did it didn't see it as a problem but thought I was doing right by giving her more room to move. In the past when I tied her (all 1 or 2 times I have) she had a shorter rope. I don't know what I was thinking leaving so much and I faught myself. Been kicking myself since then. I had left her atleast 6-7 ft probably. So aside from making sure if I ever tie her again, to tie it shorter, is there anything I can do so she won't flip out? Anyways that are good to teach her, or not? I don't know if she's had a bad experience with being tied or what her issue is. She's fine as long as she doesn't feel tension on the rope, and she's fine with that sometimes, but she has a switch she can turn on or off in the blink of an eye when it comes to rearing and causing a fit with the rope.
So I was hoping you had some suggestion??

Thanks so much!
Sharon, Las Vegas NV

Answer:

Firstly, you're doing the right thing by tying her to something like a tree that she can't pull down or hurt herself on. You're also doing the right thing by tying her after she works. I tie EVERYONE after they are ridden or lunged. It's a habit they need to get into especially if you ever show them, go on long or overnight rides, etc....

It's really a pretty simple fix. I like to leave them with about 2 feet of rope to work with. But I tie ABOVE their head. Or at eye level. This way they can't flip themselves, get hung up, and if they were to fall down, they basically sit down and can easily get back up.

The hard part is doing it and letting realize she will be ok. A lot of owners panic when the horse panics, and untie them quickly (you were right to do so if she was tangled, so I don't mean that particular instance). It's best to let them "freak out" while supervised until they learn to respect the space you've given them. Sometimes tying them to eat helps tremendously. I am also a huge fan of treats every 10 or 15 minute. Soothing voice and reassurance also make a big difference. If you have a heavy enough trailer, I would recommend that first. The tie rings are usually right where they should be, and they can't wrap themselves around it. If your tree is close to the fence line, that helps too. As long as she can't get hung up in the fence. Maybe putting a plywood between the fence and tree can prevent that.

Otherwise you are doing everything right. Let her panic and use your judgement and let her go if she REALLY needs help. But a lot of them panic because they know that it works and you'll come save them.

I hope that helps!

[pandorasmom]

I <3 you too Badlands! lol :D :grouphug:

So far what Badlands said has helped extremely! I tie it higher then her head now and she is doing better. Hasn't flipped out anymore, though she does have her off days of hating to be tied, she's doing better. I think she's figuring out it's pointless to panic. She's doing ALOT better with it.

Thanks again Badlands!! :D

[livaward]

Yup....Tucker had a fit the other day.....Jorie got out of site and he started pulling and pulling and pulling......I just stood there yelling "ACK" every time he pulled or when he reared I pulled the lead rope down so he didn't hurt himself but he eventually stopped and then I praised him but left him tied to finish our grooming session and he stood quietly till we were done.

[YAorNEIGH]

Oh, also, when I was first teaching my unbroke how to tie, I would loop the lead rope through the ring and just hold the end of it while I groomed and temped him so that if he pulled, he met resistance, but if he really spazzed out in such a cramped area, I would have some control over the rope and the tension in it. He was completely and totally unhandled before I got him, but he caught on really, really quickly. I think it was probably good that he hadn't had any bad habits ingrained already ;) Before I taught him to tie, I taught him to hobble, so that might have helped also...But he always stood quietly, for the most part, despite being a young stud colt. He was a good boy.

[FlapJack]

I only skimmed the other posts, looks like you're getting some good advice. I wanted to add that when I started teaching Jack to tie he was moving around a lot and occasionally pawing, too. I think that part of it comes with age...he's already more patient than he was a couple months ago. When he paws I say 'ack!' and wave my hand at him and he stops. He doesn't paw often anymore though.
So anyway, yeah, I think part of it is a maturity thing. Also I think it was mentioned to tie them relatively high and not leave much slack...that was something I didn't do at first till my trainer instructed me and it made a world of difference.

[FatSpottedAppy]

Alright, well, he already went thru two lead ropes..

He doesn't freak out, he just pulls harder.. and harder.. and harder.. until the lead rope snaps. What I am thinking I want to do is tie him to a tree as this last time it looked like he was wiggling the post out of the ground, but what can I tie him with so that nothing will break and he'll just have to live it out? This is annoying.. I thought that when I was buying a 2,000 horse that he'd at least know how to calmly tie.

Not to mention he also will not bath for me, but thats for a different thread I guess.

[YAorNEIGH]

Have you tried hobbling yet? That's a really great way to teach them not to pull against things and to stand calmly and patiently when they're stuck (or tied, lol). I think that it would really help him.

[FatSpottedAppy]

I meant to ask you about it YoN, I will shoot you a PM.

[YAorNEIGH]

Sounds good, hon. I'll keep an eye out.

[luv4chance]

Ok ....Cinco has never been tied. How do I introduce him to tying? He just turned a year.

[YAorNEIGH]

Check out my post, #13, on this thread, luv4chance :) That was how I went about it, but...if I remember correctly, my guy was hobbled first and then taught how to tie, which would have made it a bit easier on him...He took right to it.

[Palogal]

Ok ....Cinco has never been tied. How do I introduce him to tying? He just turned a year.

Make sure he's well halter broke and gives to pressure. Then you can "just do it." Make sure you use a quick release knot in case there's trouble. I don't hobble, I've seen some pretty bad wrecks with it.

[TheBadLands]

Make sure he's well halter broke and gives to pressure. Then you can "just do it." Make sure you use a quick release knot in case there's trouble. I don't hobble, I've seen some pretty bad wrecks with it.

I agree.. I just let them figure it out, throw a fit, and am there if there is a problem.. I don't use hobbles personally.

[YAorNEIGH]

If done with safety in mind, hobbling is a very effective and perfectly humane technique for teaching a horse patience and how to handle himself calmly in potentially dangerous situations like being tangled up something, leg caught in the fence, etc. I think it's safer to teach your horse to hobble in a controlled environment than to let him injure himself even more severely when he gets caught up and you're not around to help right away...:) It gets him used to being caught, confined, stuck, and teaches him to give to pressure. I feel that teaching to hobble is a little bit safer than just tying the horse to something solid and letting them flip out...But I think I also just feel like I have a little more control of the situation and a little easier time influencing his thought process with this technique...Either way...To each his own. This is the method that I like to use. ;)

I'm going to answer FSA's PM about hobbling here, I think...FSA, I'll get back to your specific question/s in PM ;)

-Make sure that you remove your spurs before you start. If you need to get out of your horse's way quickly, a thousand pounds of tumbling horseflesh moves a LOT faster than a cowboy/cowgirl who's tripping over hes or her spurs. Trust me, lol. I've seen it. You can trip on them, they can get caught on your jeans, etc.

-Use a long lead or a lunge line. Do not use a shorter lead (8'-10'). Use something that's like...12'-14' or just use a lunge line. You're going to want to be able to have contact and control at all times. If you have to drop the line to get far enough out of the way, your line is too short and you've lost control of your horse.

-You should be in a good-sized, enclosed area with soft ground. A round pen, ideally. It is entirely possible that your horse is going to trip, stumble, fall, etc. Make sure there is good footing, not slippery or too hard.

-I would suggest lunging a bit beforehand. Tire him out some. You don't want a hyped up horse that's all wired and is going to freak out more than is necessary.

-Sack your horse out with the hobbles. I prefer soft rope hobbles to the leather ones or other types...(I learned out to make them in school, but it's something that would be pretty hard to explain in text, I think. I made mine out of an old cotton lead rope with a broken snap. I wouldn't use anything but rope hobbles, personally. They're softer, sturdier, and much more forgiving than commercially made ones...I would never use leather or nylon.) I rub it down each of his legs and then flop it against his pasterns and let it wrap around a bit. If you're working with an unbroke, make sure he's ready for you to go reaching around underneath him without jumping on your head, lol. It's a good idea to put the hobble around one foot at a time, lift it up, pull left, right, up, down...sack him out to the sensation of the rope's pressure and teach him to give his foot to it.

-Apply the hobbles :) I would suggest having a knowledgeable person *show* you how to do this correctly. I would also suggest practicing doing it quickly and smoothly on an experienced horse, if at all possible. My only tip is to be sure that you set your horse's feet close enough together that you can get the hobbles on, lol. You don't want to start the process and find that you have to move his feet after the fact because they're not close enough to complete the fastening.

-Now comes the interesting part. You're going to back away from your horse. He's prrrooobably going to try to follow you, only to find that his feet are caught. This usually results in a huge spaz attack, although some of them handle it quite well. They can react a number of ways including...yanking, stumbling, pogo-sticking and hopping around on their front legs. Make sure you stay OUT of the line of fire! Do not put yourself directly in front of your horse at this point.

-Once he calms down, let him stand a minute and then experiment. Stand facing your horse's shoulder, far away from him, and apply pressure. Pull him around, force him to take a step in your direction, even as you change positions to keep out of his way. You're going to continue this process until he reacts calmly. You want him to understand quite plainly that he is STUCK.

-I like to do a few sessions of this, but short ones, before I use it for more extended periods for different things. As soon as the horse is calm and relaxed and okay with his stuck situation, take the hobbles off and rub him and love on him ;)

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/ezjess/DSC00183.jpg
Sacking out with the hobbles.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/ezjess/DSC00186.jpg
Initial pressure, just starting to pull him off-balance.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/ezjess/DSC00194.jpg
A calm, thinking reaction to being pulled off-balance and made to take a step within the confines of the hobbles. Calm expression, ears up, focused. This horse really was a great guy.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/ezjess/DSC00189.jpg
Standing calm and quiet after a very mild initial freakout :D Such a good boy!

I may edit to add more things as I think of them...lol. ;) Hope this helps!

I don't have sound, so I'm not sure what the guy is actually saying in the video, but here is a pretty good clip of a typical reaction to first time hobbling for a young horse.

YouTube - 04 How to Hobble a Young Horse pt1

[WashingtonBay]

Correcting a horse that pulls back and breaks things is one of those things it's just really hard to responsibly advise on over the internet.

If you tie him, with a lead that won't break, to something that wont break or pull out of the ground, he may learn, or there is at least some chance he might break his neck. It happens.

So because of that risk, I hesitate to say you need to force this right now, one way or the other.

I do like high lines for teaching to tie, they're rather elastic, and thus don't trigger the panic at the end of the line... and they're hanging in outer space, so the horse doesn't really have anything specific to pull away from... most fidgety horses circle in it... they don't sit back. Eventually, they realize they're not getting anywhere and they relax. Usually.

http://www.baywindfarm.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3123&stc=1&d=1239976397


Others swear by using the blocker tie rings to break a puller of the habit.

There is a great video on this link about how they work. - Blocker Ranch Horsemanship Equipment (http://www.blockerranch.com/)

IMHO, these aren't a permanent solution for leaving them unattended, you still have to be there to pull the slack out, or they could just pull the line through, and either get tangled in it, or walk off, but it does seem to help take the panic out of the pull back moment, and that is the major challenge in tieing.

[IrisGreen]

I tend to avoid tieing threads now. I have had my share of threads go south just because I mentioned the Blocker Tie Ring and was told it was a "gadget". But, it worked for Muffin beautifully. I used the Blocker tie ring to get Muffin to stop braking things and I swear by it now. In my mind it's better then letting them fight it out and possible injury any day. Plus, it works.

I have two of them but I don't even use them anymore now that Muffin ties. He can still spook and pull back a little but he doesn't try to brake stuff to get away or panic because he's tied. He just spooks with in the confines of the tie if he does happen to spook at some thing. Before, all he had on his mind was braking free, sitting back and not stopping the fight tell he was released (by braking something).

If you want one of my Blocker tie rings let me know. I have an extra one I'm not using. It's the original version that came out, not the new one with the magnet the helps hold the tung up and the clip for convenience. Mine works just the same as the "new" version but I just use a rope to tie it to a pole or whatever because it doesn't have a built in clip and you do have to keep an eye on the horse because mine doesn't have the magnet to hold the tung up so if the horse gets to mouthing at it and ends up pushing both ends of the lead through the ring at the same time the tung will drop and release the rope. Muffin has done this before with mine, I think that's why they came out with the new design that has the magnet to hold the tung up instead of relying on the rope to keep it up.

Let me know if you want me to send one to you. Just send me your addy by PM and I can get it shipped out. If you really like it then you can order one of the newer ones if you like, I'm planning on ordering one just to keep handy.

Let me know if you want to try it. Maybe we could make it the tie ring we pass around the forum for others to try. lol

[WashingtonBay]

If I recall Iris... the only reason we got into it was not about the ring, so much as intentionally spooking them when they're tied. That I had a fair disagreement with.

That's all :)

[Palogal]

*laughs* I remember that discussion :)

[WashingtonBay]

I think that's the one where Vacker called me Miss Ouiser.

http://www.natchitoches.net/movies/steelmagnolias/gfx/riverfront1.jpg

That stung a bit at the time... :D

[cyb]

Iris Green If no one else wants your extra tie ring I could use it with Willow, not sure if you read my thread about Willow's wreck, it was a doosie :doh:
*Edited to add once Willow has overcome her tying issue I would gladly send it to another forum member that needed it.

[YAorNEIGH]

Hmm...That's a pretty interesting little doohickey :D It's kind of similar to what I do with a regular tie ring when I first start tying them...I loop it through the ring twice so that if they pull really hard and panic, it comes loose, but it's not going to come undone too easily. At first, I'll hold the end loosely so that I can fix it easily when they pull, but eventually I just leave it hang and then progress to tying with a quick release :)

It's great that it helped you, Iris. It makes sense to me, lol.

[Palogal]

I think that's the one where Vacker called me Miss Ouiser.

http://www.natchitoches.net/movies/steelmagnolias/gfx/riverfront1.jpg

That stung a bit at the time... :D

um hmmmm... :D

[WashingtonBay]

What am I going to do with this dog? All his HAIR is falling out! You have to stop shooting at the birds, I am at my wit's end.
:D

[Palogal]

Serve him on toast!

[WashingtonBay]

:hysterical:



I guess I might as well wear it.

[FatSpottedAppy]

Thanks guys.

I am really liking the idea of the Blocker Tie Ring, it sounds like it just might do the trick. My question is do you have to always use it or can they eventually be weaned to a regular tie ring?

He is not freaking out for sure.. He just kind of walks back and forth, pulls a little, walks back and forth some more, pulls more, back and forth, then pulls a lot. As soon as the lead rope snaps he doesn't get antsy or frightened.. It's like he knows what he's doing.

[Vacker Hast]

Thanks guys.

I am really liking the idea of the Blocker Tie Ring, it sounds like it just might do the trick. My question is do you have to always use it or can they eventually be weaned to a regular tie ring?

You eventually wean them from the Blocker Tie Ring when they are ready and can hard tie them. Only you will know from working with each horse when they are ready to be hard tied. They eventually stop fidgeting and stand calmly and continue using the Blocker a bit longer than you think you actually need to. It takes time and working with them consistantly and it gives you peace-of-mind that they are safe while teaching them to hard tie.

I do like WB's idea of the high-line but most people don't have a safe place to put a high-line but that works really well too for anybody reading this.

I hope this helps.

Stacy

[AUEquine]

My best suggestion to you, since he's already learned that he can break things to get away... back up halters!
When teaching Fiddler to tie, apparently my special tying halter had dry rotted a little and he was able to break it! :banghead: Crap, he just learned something. And he was smart and strong at 16 months, so I had to find a way to teach him that pulling back and breaking things didn't free him! So I put 2 rope halters on him, each with their own rope lead (not metal anywhere). Then I tied each on at a different length. That way if he was able to break the first on, #2 caught him. I tied him to a 8x8 post that was part of a wall pannel of an outdoor stall (that way if he got loose he was still in a stall). I tied him up, walked to the gate, and he promptly sat down. I swear he gave me this look of 'hey mom, watch this!' After a minute or two of struggling he did finally break it, and he knew it... but wait, he was still tied! It cracked me up, he just stood there with this dumbfounded look on his face. He couldn't figure out how he was still tied! So that was the begining of his acceptance, the rest was just finess. I did use hobbles on him, greatest thing since sliced bread! He now stands tied nicely to the trailer for 14 hours easy!
The key things is safety. Through all of this I was never more than 15 feet away (though out of sight), and had a knife already sitting next to the gate to the stall if needed! But I just let him work it out, he tried to buck, dance from side to side, tried to paw, screamed, everything! But after a few weeks of spending a few hours like this he just accepted it.

[Peggy Sue]

some horses just paw ....

when teaching one to tie ... I use a good sturdy rope halter and tie above head on tree limb ... think you have to CLIMB tree crawl out about ten foot on limb and tie a rope to hand down to the correct hieght.. then they can wear themselves out walking circles and not get hurt ... I use rafters in my stalls as well and hang rope down in center when not in use I stand on something and clip it ot itself out of way :)

[star197]

I like to read the tying threads and figure it will come in handy one day. We are working on our horse set-up at the new house. There will not be any established trees that i can use for tying.

I was watching the Blocker Tie Ring video - is the height that he has that ring good for all-purpose tying (training, grooming, etc.)? Would a couple of posts with rings that height be better than having a tie rail that is goes across about 4 feet high?

[WashingtonBay]

A tie that high is better than a rail that is low, yes.

Now, it can be good to have rails or a wall that keep him from being able to go around the post. I imagine if he got wrapped around a pole, the blocker right wouldn't release right.

[APPYT]

I read thru and didn't see this option mentioned for confirmed pullers. You can tie an innertube to a post or tree then tie the horse to that. Tie high, of course and be sure the innertube isn't rotten either. ;) Fold the innertube in half, wrap around tree/branch/post and tie/connect the ends together. Make sense?

Otherwise I like the tie blocker also. It is designed to be used with 3 settings. One slips fairly easily, one is a bit stronger and the third is tight I believe. Always use a 15' rope with that so there is room for them to back up far enough that they don't feel claustrophobic. Another option when you don't have any other choice is to wrap the lead around the post/rail several times but don't tie it. If you are using the right kind of rope it will catch and drag but will come loose if pulled on hard enough. Each wrap makes it a bit harder to pull loose. I use the yacht braid leads and this works great.

[Peggy Sue]

If you read what I WROTE I say put them on tree or rafter where they can turn all theywant and NOT get wrapped up... they will get tried and learn to stand there... that being said Moosa will stand all day but he does paw... no clue why but he does it when he eats as well... he is hobble broke and when tied to trailer or someplacee where he is gonig to be left alone I use the hobbles but he just paws no ryhme or reason to it

[APPYT]

If you read what I WROTE I

:huh: Sorry, but who are you talking to?

[FredRock]

When Fred went through a pawing phase, this is what I did. He would paw in his stall (tied) and I would yell "hey!" and if he didn't stop, he got a smack of the crop on his shoulder. Rinse and repeat for a day or two, and that was it. Now all I have to say is "hey!" for movement or pawing while tied and he stops. Of course I have to be ready to follow through if he doesn't stop, but I don't use the crop anymore.

I wouldn't reccomend it if your horses are really sensitive though; Fred's used to the crop so he didn't even move when he got hit. Cheyenne would have flipped if I did that to her.