Mullen, low port, medium port curb bits

[star197]

This is in regards to the mouthpiece on a western curb. Years ago, my first trainer said that a mullen mouth was the most mild because there was no port to hit the roof of the horse's mouth. I have also read and heard that a medium port is the most mild because it offers tongue relief. I suppose it depends on the horse, but how do you know if the port is too high? Do you peer in the mouth with the bit on? If it's not hitting the palate when there is no pressure on the bit, is that the correct height?

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m351/pepstar197/mullen.jpg
http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m351/pepstar197/lowlev.jpg
http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m351/pepstar197/medlev.jpg

[WashingtonBay]

I think of those the third one may be the most 'mild'. I dunno. It's a wash with the second one. None of those ports are near tall enough to hit the pallet.

[luvs2ride1979]

It depends on what the horse likes. Mullen or Low Port are more "mild" than a medium or high port. Which is most mild depends on your horse's mouth conformation and preference.

[AppyLover]

I use a mullen mouth on Abby because she does have a very shallow pallet. With her I can stick my fingers in and feel. When I was using a shallow port or low port bit she would head toss and try to rear. When I did not know any better I put a jointed mouth on her and she flipped over.

It is different for every horse and most will try to tell you what they like or dislike. Start gentle and go from there.

[Cat]

Depends on the horse's mouth shape. That last one would have no problem hitting my haflinger's pallet - but again his is low and that is why he doesn't do well with a snaffle either.

I read an article recently that said the mullen mouth was milder because it did sit on the tongue and thus the horse could hold it easier where as the ported bits hindered that and thus put more constant pressure right on the bars.

[Remali]

Depends on the horse.....but I was going to say the third bit too.....also I like the shorter shanks on that one.....more mild with shorter shanks.

[vicklynn]

I like 1 and 3, # 2 has to much port and the shanks are not shaped for my liking.

[3equines]

My understanding is that the shanks (length) are what determine the severity of o curb (or pelham) bit because the length of the shank multiplies the amount of leverage and force that is applied to the bit.

Horses do have individual tolerance for the type of bit they will respond to in regard to the palate. My Arabian, Taz, had 'bit issues' when I got him, so I rode him in a hackamore for about 3 years. Then I started trying out bits, and it turns out the regular D-ring snaffle bit (no curb chain) was hitting his port and causing the 'issues'. I can now ride him in a french-link (3-piece) D-ring snaffle bit (popularly referred to as Myler bit where I am from).

For my Haflinger, I use a Kimberwicke uxeter bit that has an eggbutt snaffle mouthpiece but has 'curb' action via a short shank and curb chain. I think this is a very happy place to begin as far as curb pressure goes. It has a little extra 'bite' but also allows direct reining and doesn't put a lot of port pressure on the horse (you have to pull both reins back hard to flip it up into the port).

[TheBadLands]

I go with the third...

It's about tongue relief... I have some very high ported bits and they still do not hit the upper mouth if in the correct hands.

Side Note: These bits are for finished horses who ride off your seat, neck rein etc.. the slightest of hand aid will be heeded when used correctly.

[IrisGreen]

I agree with BadLands. These are for finished horses that don't need to be pulled on, they just need to feel the weight of the rein changing on the shank to respond.

The third looks like what is considered a grazing bit. For finished horses out on the trail to eat with when tied or hand lead. I think it allows tung movement for eating and isn't suppose to be used to hit the pallet while riding (on a finished horse). It has the medium port so the horse can eat more freely with out the bit moving around or getting in the way.

I have heard a Kimberewick is one of the worst bits you can use on a horse. There confusing because it's a jointed curb bit that collapses and grabs the mouth with the curb chain giving mixed cues. I have heard some horses seem to go well in them but many horses don't and end up very confused during training. I'm not saying there horrible but from what I have heard I wouldn't use one just because they don't give clear cues.

These 3 bits seem pretty mild compared to some of the Spade/spoon port bits that are very high ports and are meant to hit the pallet. Those things are a little scary to even look at!

[mare]

These 3 bits seem pretty mild compared to some of the Spade/spoon port bits that are very high ports and are meant to hit the pallet. Those things are a little scary to even look at!


The port of a spade or spoon bit is not meant to hit the pallet at all. They are meant to lay on the tongue and when used with a balanced headstall and reins, which can be adjusted to a horse's way of going, that is what it does.

Actually, from a standpoint of physics, the spades and spoons disperse pressure over the greatest surface area and that makes them the mildest.

Of course getting a horse to that point usaully takes 3-5 years and can't be attempted by most. Similar to me attempting to train for a levade or even a piaffe and saying I'll start now and have it done by Memorial Day.

[Cat]

I have heard a Kimberewick is one of the worst bits you can use on a horse. There confusing because it's a jointed curb bit that collapses and grabs the mouth with the curb chain giving mixed cues. I have heard some horses seem to go well in them but many horses don't and end up very confused during training. I'm not saying there horrible but from what I have heard I wouldn't use one just because they don't give clear cues.


You can get kimberwickes with any type of mouth peice - one of the most popular ones is a low-port. Completely gets rid of the "collapses" part of it. However, even a jointed kimberwicke is no where near as bad as the ever so popular tom thumb.

[Remali]

I used a kimberwicke on my Arab mare, she loved it, but the kimberwicke I used had a low port mouthpiece, and wasn't jointed at all.

For a western style bit.....I really like a short shanked, low port mouthpiece....I should try and get a picture of the one that I have....

Yeah...Tom Thumb bits.....I hate 'em.

ETA: OK, here is the curb bit I used to use on Kara. She went really well in it, and I liked the short shanks and low port mouthpiece.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c91/Remali24/curbbit.jpg

[IrisGreen]

Thankx for clarifying that for me, Mare. I was thinking in terms of an unfinished horse or unexperienced rider these type of bits would be much harsher then a medium port bit. I think if used by the wrong hands or on a horse that's not finished a spoon or spade bit could/would jab into the pallet if pulled on. I was just using them as an example of a more drastic port then the 3 bits shown.

[WashingtonBay]

I have heard a Kimberewick is one of the worst bits you can use on a horse. There confusing because it's a jointed curb bit that collapses and grabs the mouth with the curb chain giving mixed cues. I have heard some horses seem to go well in them but many horses don't and end up very confused during training. I'm not saying there horrible but from what I have heard I wouldn't use one just because they don't give clear cues.


Hang around enough horsemen, and you'll 'hear' a lot of things. Every single thing on the market has a fan base and some critics... and many on both sides are just passing on what they 'heard'.

Well, I've used a kimberwicke on Bay for years. He responds a lot better on trail in it than in a snaffle, it has just enough leverage for him.

These 3 bits seem pretty mild compared to some of the Spade/spoon port bits that are very high ports and are meant to hit the pallet. Those things are a little scary to even look at!Spade bits don't hit the pallet normally, their shape and weight encourage the horse to carry the bit vertically so it doesn't. And they can feel the rider move his hand just a fraction.

[mare]

Thankx for clarifying that for me, Mare. I was thinking in terms of an unfinished horse or unexperienced rider these type of bits would be much harsher then a medium port bit. I think if used by the wrong hands or on a horse that's not finished a spoon or spade bit could/would jab into the pallet if pulled on. I was just using them as an example of a more drastic port then the 3 bits shown.

Thanks. I just wanted to point out they have a place for those who may not be familiar with them. I've heard of people buying them at shows because they look cool and then just slapping them on old Dobbin, expecting to get a response that takes years to perfect, too. Makes me shudder.

[IrisGreen]

Cat,
Good point! I forgot you can get a kimberewick "non-jointed". When I see them being used there most always jointed at the stables. I wouldn't mind a medium port on one but I wouldn't agree with a jointed one just like I don't like the Tom Thumb bits either. Tom Thumbs are even worse at confusing a horse, shanks, curb and jointed....ohhh my! lol

[WashingtonBay]

Mine is a jointed kimberwick. I find the solid ones very stiff. Stiff in feel, stiff in reaction by the horse. Even tom thumbs get a bad rap... I've never owned one, I've always ridden English, but before there were forums a lot of people used them quite successfully, along with other jointed curbs of various types, and still do.

[Cat]

Even though I'm not a fan of tom thumbs and feel they are way over used - I do know horses who go well in them and nothing else. In fact a few years ago I rode a 27 year old who's favorite bit was his tom thumb. Put a snaffle or a un-joined curb in his mouth - forget it, he took off with you. Who knows why he liked this bit, but it worked well for him and at 27, I really doubt anyone was changing his mind! LOL.

So really, it depends, is the best answer. And really - is the action of any bit confusing to a horse if that horse had been trained to respond to the cues that specific bit gives?

[3equines]

Every bit discussion really boils down to training, and sorting out opinions vs. what works for the horse and rider. However, I always learn a lot from what people have to say about the different bits, so all of the information is very useful. My Haflinger Peach was started in a Tom Thumb, but I felt like I did not have the right 'hands' for this bit, and Peach rides fabulous in a plain old French link snaffle with no shanks and no curb chain. She is still learning what legs and reins mean, so in her case I honestly think the Tom Thomb was way too hard a bit for her. I may eventually move Sweet P up into a Tom Thumb, once she consistently responds to light pressure on the Kimberwicke.

What is kinda funny is that if I put a beginner or 'unknown' rider on my horses, I use the flat-nosed hackamore because I don't want them 'ruining' my horses' mouth. Of course, I am also riding with the beginner and usually have them following me, so I am 'in control' so far as directing traffic and being the first in line when spooky situations come along.

[star197]

;) Ok...now I'm really confused. There really are so many opinions out there and I guess it boils down to what does that particular horse work best in, what he is comfortable yet responsive in, and what knowledge the rider has. I was told that if a bit had shanks, stay with a solid mouthpiece; otherwise, just use a snaffle (d-ring, full cheek, o-ring, etc.). I've always just ridden in a snaffle, but a horse I tried out earlier this week neck-reined with a curb bit, so that got me to thinking about the various mouthpieces.